In the past, I’ve posted a couple of descriptions of what’s needed to build resin kits that are not very complex, in hopes of encouraging those who are apprehensive about even trying one of these kits. My current project, Funaro & Camerlengo kit no. 6940 for a Pennsylvania well-hole flat car, was described in its beginning stages, along with prototype information, in the previous post (you can see it here: https://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2021/01/another-simple-resin-kit.html ).
In the previous post, I had only cleaned up the car body and added weight. Next I added the side and end grab irons as provided in the kit. Then came trucks. In the previous post, I showed the kit’s unpainted truck sideframes. Here is an assembled truck (I used recycled Kadee wheelsets) that has been painted black, and a truck frame ready to assemble. Word of caution: when assembling trucks, make sure that all six wheels touch the surface together, and the bolster is not canted or twisted.
Next, I needed to figure out my coupler and truck attachments. The kit directions recommend a trial fitting, a good idea to make sure everything works before adding any delicate detail. Below is the model, shown from below, with the brass screw heads evident for both coupler boxes and trucks. I chose to attach the trucks using screws offset from under the center axle.
Now final details could be added: the sill steps and dual brake wheels (the prototype cars had an independent brake system on each truck). I was impressed with the resin sill steps, which accurately reproduce the prototype. But the resin brake wheels didn’t appeal. For flatcar hand brakes, I prefer to solder a brass brake wheel (Precision Scale) to a brass wire staff, and did so in this case.
Next came painting. As with other Pennsylvania models, I used Tamiya red primer (“Oxide Red,” no. 87160), a color recommended by PRR modelers. The model below rests on my “interim truck support blocks” for painting (for a description, see: https://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2014/11/interim-truck-support-blocks.html ).
To continue the theme of keeping this project simple, I used the “rattle-can” version of the Tamiya
primer, and should repeat what I often mention, that the Tamiya cans
show how well this kind of paint delivery works when well designed and
Next came decals. The kit decals are quite complete, and as I normally do with F&C decals, I took the precaution of coating them with Microscale’s “Liquid Decal Film” before use. After decaling, I applied a coat of Tamiya Clear Flat, and painted the wood boards in the well with a “seasoned wood” color. I will develop more refinement on the boards after weathering the entire car — which I will do later.
I should repeat a comment from the first post, that these well cars (AAR type FW) are in a sense the opposite of depressed-center flat cars (FD). The load in an FD car is intended to be placed in the lower center area, while in an FW car, it cannot and must not rest in the center section. Loads have to be supported by frameworks resting on the car ends as you see in the photo below (Kenneth Rideout collection, courtesy Jim Seagrave; also included in the book, Pennsylvania Railroad Flat Cars by Gatwood and Buchan).
As I had intended and expected, this model was easy to build, with its one-piece body and few details to be added. About the only part of the kit requiring care is assembling the trucks. I hope this post gives a few “avoiders” of resin freight car models, some inspiration to give one a try. Start with something simple like this kit.