Personal: Master Model Railroader #772

I recently completed the requirements for the NMRA’s Master Model Railroader (MMR) in their Achievement Program. This program has been around for something like 50 years, and that over 700 people have fulfilled the requirements before me tells you that it is certainly a doable project for plenty of modelers.

Years ago, when I was the editor of the newsletter for NMRA’s Division 2 of Mid-Central Region (Pittsburgh), I wrote a piece about the Achievement Program. In it, I stated that the MMR is doable with patience and dedication, a little bit like deciding to visit all the National Parks in the United States. Yes, it would take awhile and some resources, but it’s entirely possible if you make the effort.

The program has 11 categories of achievement, of which the modeler has to complete at least seven. I had completed four by 1990, when I still lived in Pittsburgh, but then moving and being without a layout for awhile, I kind of lost momentum in the MMR program. 

Recently, though, I read my friend Seth Neumann’s write-up of his meeting the requirements for one of the certificates, Model Railroad Engineer — Electrical, and I thought, “Heck, I’ve done enough to qualify for that.” 

And so it proved, along with two of the “layout” categories, Master Builder – Structures, and Master Builder — Scenery, as part of progress on my layout. That made seven.

One thing that results from receiving one’s certificate of completion is an article in the NMRA Magazine, with whatever kind of biography one wishes to submit. I wrote one up, but was disappointed they didn’t use one photo I sent them, documenting my pretty nearly life-long interest in trains. It was taken when I was rather small, showing me admiring an International–Great Northern (Mopac) Ten-wheeler at Cotulla, Texas, where my parents lived at the time.

Here is the article as presented in the NMRA Magazine’s November 2024 issue, with this cover:

The first page looked like this. If you click on the image to enlarge it, it’s readable (should you wish to do so). They did use this contemporary photo of me alongside the layout.

The second page, including a listing of the seven certificates I completed, was this:

I am glad to finish something I started so long ago, and despite a little embarrassment about the long gap in my efforts, still feel gratified that it finally all turned out. But just the same, it doesn’t make me one iota different as a modeler or a person than I used to be.

Tony Thompson

Car movements for an operating session

About five years ago, I posted some thoughts about how car movements are directed on my layout, prior to and during an operating session. This was in response to a question about how an op (that is, operating) session is set up. That previous post is at: https://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2021/07/selecting-cars-for-op-session.html .  

Since that time, I have heard any number of layout owners talk about how they set up op sessions. One commonly mentioned goal is to make the layout “self-resetting,” or “continuously operated.” That usually means that at the end of an operating session, the clock and layout power can be turned off, and at the next session, days, weeks or months later, simply turned back on, and operations can continue. 

To make this happen, train schedules obviously have to continue also, either onward through the “timetable-night,” or automatically the next morning. More importantly, from the viewpoint of the present post, car cards/waybills have to have been turned or changed at some point. 

Sometimes the layout operation includes turning waybills when cars are spotted, while in other cases the layout owner may do that between sessions. But the goal is for car cards/waybills to direct operation in potentially continuous fashion. Cars naturally move from staging onto the layout, and move off again as part of their waybill cycle. Once waybills are cycled in staging, everything can repeat.

But often in practice, this “hands-off” approach doesn’t work well, with industries having too many or too few cars in some sessions, and even local trains that can turn out too big or too small. Part of the problem can simply be too many cars on the layout, or too many waybills for one or more industries. But fine tuning can only go so far in creating a reproducible continuous operation.

Often the answer is more intervention for each session, checking how the waybill numbers look for specific trains and destinations, and altering them to suit. No, this is no longer “automatic,” but it produces more consistent sessions. That was what proved necessary on my late friend Otis McGee’s layout.

My layout emphasizes individual car cycles, including the spotting of empty cars for loading. This gondola is being moved to Jupiter Pump & Compressor in my layout town of Ballard to receive an outbound load. The power is a Key brass model of an SP Class C-10 Consolidation, SP 2829, with its rectangular tender.

On my layout, I usually start my plan for each op session by simply choosing a number of industries set outs or pickups that seem appropriate, based on “walking around” the layout and comparing status of all sidings with the “industry actions” list from the previous session (as I described earlier: https://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2019/07/waybills-part-66-car-movement-system.html ).

I originally created the “actions” list, showing what cars were at which industries, which ones were to be switched, and which new cars would be spotted, just as a convenience for the following session. I often pair op sessions over a weekend, Saturday and Sunday afternoons, and with the “actions” list, it is quick and easy to re-stage everything for Sunday, merely returning to Saturday’s starting arrangement.

But since then, the list has proven to have other uses. I can readily check back on previous sessions and see what sequences had been followed, and decide if I want to continue them, or go in different directions. I also have a record of how heavily certain favorite cars have been used, and can make sure to rotate them off the layout so that I can bring into play as many cars of my fleet as possible.

To illustrate the amount of information, I show below the “actions” from the two sessions I hosted last April for the ProRail operating event (for my commentary on it, see: https://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2024/04/prorail-2024.html ). These were my 90th and 91st sessions on the present layout. I don’t mean for readers to examine this image (unless it’s really interesting), but only to show the sheer volume of data represented. Though the main goal originally was the re-set, I’ve found it to be a real tool for session planning. (You can click on the image to enlarge it if you wish.)

Because the list shows me what was set out and picked up in the previous session, often I concentrate on pickups and set-outs at industries that were not switched in the prior session, then fine-tuning the numbers of each local train for the branch, so things will work all right. The goal is interesting and enjoyable sessions for visiting operators, and good sequences of industries served for my vision of the layout.

This also applies to through freight trains. I regularly cycle the cars in these trains to maintain variety, and they rarely or never operate in successive sessions in identical consists. Below is an example of eastward timetable freight No. 916, just reaching Shumala on the layout.

I feel that there is more to say on this, and likely I will return to the topic in future posts.

Tony Thompson

Small project: a Maine Central gondola

In 1939, the Maine Central Railroad received an order of 150 low-side steel gondolas, 40 feet long, numbered 17000–17149. They were evidently durable cars; by the time I model, 1953, all 150 were still in service. A recent discussion of these cars on the Steam Era Freight Cars list (or STMFC) made me think about them.

Do I need a model of one of these cars for a layout set on the West Coast? No, but such a car certainly might appear anywhere in the United States, so it could fit in. I believe it was Tim O’Connor who observed that small railroads, or small car groups like this one, are statistically invisible in the national freight car fleet by themselves, but in total, they add up to well over 5 percent of the fleet. So you do need to have a selected few.

A good prototype photo, shown by Tim O’Connor on STMFC, shows one of these cars at Everett, MA on July 2, 1950. The car has the round “Pine Tree” herald, introduced about 1949, but the as-built cars had the “Box Name” emblem, and many cars continued to carry that paint scheme as late as the 1960s.

This is of interest because years ago, Ertl Models introduced a low-side 40-foot steel gondola model in HO scale. I picked up one in Atlantic Coast Line markings, though the model does not match the ACL cars of this type (which is why it was still in the box). The model was manufactured in China and is ready-to-run, with free-standing grab irons and sill steps. The “wood” floor in this photo needs to be trimmed to fit better.

The models also have quite a nice underbody, with all equipment well presented.

While reading the STMFC discussions, including the point that drawings by Chuck Yungkurth of these MEC gondolas were in the May 1989 Railroad Model Craftsman, it occurred to me I could repaint my model and letter it for MEC. As it happens, Highball Graphics makes a Maine Central set that can letter several different freight cars, including this gondola, set F-218 (see it at: https://highballgraphics.com/product/maine-central-steam-era-freight-equipment/ ). I ordered a set. 

Then I went ahead and repainted the Ertl car body black, while masking the couplers and temporarily replacing the trucks with my “paint shop trucks.”

With that paint in place, I proceeded with the nice Highball Graphics decals. These were straightforward to apply, though possibly a little oversize for the gondola.Here’s the lettered model, still on its “paint shop” trucks.

With lettering completed, I weathered the outside of the car moderately, and the inside considerably more. My method was my usual approach using washes of acrylic tube paints (for more on this, see the “Reference pages” linked at the top right of the present post). This dulls the lettering, along with softening the stark black car color. With that step finished, I added a coat of clear flat, followed by a few chalk marks and route cards.

This simple project, repainting and re-lettering an existing ready-to-run model, has been interesting and, as I always feel when completing f freight car project, definitely fun.

Tony Thompson

SP piggyback, Part 4: progress on the 3D models

In this series of posts about Southern Pacific’s early piggyback operation, I provided historical photo coverage, including the flat car conversions that SP made for the original service. That particular post is here: https://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2024/10/sp-piggyback-part-3-piggyback-service.html .) Now I want to turn to modeling of these flat cars and their trailers.

Last fall, I posted about some superb HO scale models 3D-printed and given to me by Andrew J. Chier, models of Pacific Motor Trucking (PMT) piggyback trailers, and two of the Southern Pacific’s original piggyback flat cars. (PMT was an SP subsidiary.) I included in that post a photo of AJ’s own completed models. Since then, I’ve been slowly progressing with completing these models, and that’s the subject of the present post. (You can see that previous post at: https://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2023/11/more-amazing-3-d-printing.html .).

My first step was to free the trailer bodies from their as-printed supports, clean them up with care (because small details are fragile), and then give them a coat of primer. I used Tamiya “Fine Surface Primer (White)” for this. Below are two of the trailers, as primed. The excellent and complete detailing of these models is even more evident with the light color of the primer.

I did the same white primer on the flat cars, and then painted them with the Tamiya “Fine Surface Primer (Oxide Red).” It’s a bit too red for SP freight car color, but when weathered, the difference won’t be very evident. As with the trailers, the remarkable thing about this 3D-printed model is the completeness, with all the trailer support and tie-down equipment in place.

The question can certainly  be raised about the photo above, whether any of the trailer equipment was a different color than the car body. I believe, after reviewing a great many photos, that the answer is “no.” 

The prototype image below will show what I mean. It shows the relatively new piggyback terminal at the site of Los Angeles Shops, with trailer unloading in progress. It’s part of an SP company photo, dated 1955, and the complete photo is in my Volume 3 of the series, Southern Pacific Freight Cars, on pages 284–285. I can see no indication that anything differs from body color.

Next I needed to add weight to the flat car. The design of AJ’s model cleverly allows for this, with a pocket in the underframe. I showed this in the previous post (link in uppermost paragraph of the present post). I cut some 3/8-inch lead sheet from McMaster-Carr to fit, and attached it with canopy glue. Since it will be invisible, I haven’t painted the lead. The remainder of the underframe, not shown here, is a part that fits right on top of this.

In addition to this sheet of lead, there is a 3D-printed frame part that goes over it, and that part has effectively “pockets” that permit adding additional, smaller pieces of lead sheet. Again, I fixed these in place with canopy glue. In this way, the weight can be raised to the vicinity of the NMRA standard for this car length.

From here, the flat car project is ready for the details to be added (grab irons, sill steps, brake staff and wheel) and also lettering. The trailers are primed and are ready for their red and orange paint. I’ll turn to all that in a future post.

Tony Thompson

More distinctive flat car loads

I have always enjoyed making and operating flat cars with distinctive loads, and am always on the lookout for additional opportunities to make them. Almost always, I make them removable, so that loads delivered on my layout can be picked up as empties in a following session. This post begins a series about two more loads, in these cases fairly distinctive ones. 

The first one I’ll describe is a load I’ve owned for some time, a marine boiler. I’m not sure of the source (a reader may know), but it sticks in my mind that it was from Chooch. Anyway, its width will fit on an HO-scale flat car, with the boiler’s long axis parallel to the length of the car, and that is one way to mount it. I prefer removable loads, and this one will be that way too.

I did wonder about what kind of marine boiler this might be, and my friend Ben Hom (a shipboard engineer during his time in the Navy), directed me to some excellent resources. First, the Wikipedia entry for Scotch marine boilers, as this type was known: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scotch_marine_boiler . 

In the above model view, the closed opening at the bottom is where fuel enters the combustion chamber, the middle section above that is a fire-tube boiler, and the steam is collected in the top part with the heavier bolts. The inside of this is shown in the side-view cross-section below, from the Royal Navy’s Stoker’s Manual of 1912, which can be found on the Wikimedia page for Scotch boilers. Path of hot gasses is shown by red arrows, movement of water in the water space is in black arrows.

In looking at the numerous photos of loads of this general kind, I always recall a group of Southern Pacific photos taken when their home-built Class F-70-4 depressed-center cars were new. It was during the run-up to World War II, and the photos show marine boilers being delivered on these cars to the shipyard in Richmond, California for use in Liberty ships. Here’s one of them, with the SP car in the foreground; note the light color of the boilers:

For more about the Liberty ships and their boilers and steam engines, I would recommend a really interesting and complete report on the topic (see it at: https://ww2.eagle.org/content/dam/eagle/publications/company-information/workhorse-of-the-fleet-2019.pdf ).

A close-up of the boiler still loaded on the car is also illustrative, because you can see the tie-down method (it looks like cable, but could be steel strapping). Note that the drum-shaped boiler is a bit wider than the car. Incidentally, SP’s notes on the photo state that this boiler weighed 52 tons, so a flat car of 70-ton or more capacity would be needed. Here again, the three combustion chambers are at the bottom, the fire tubes are in the middle, and the steam section is at the top.

Since I had a second model boiler like the one shown at the top of this post, I cut it down so that it could be mounted “cross-wise” like you see on the SP car shown above. It’s shown below after painting, a light color like the boilers shown in the SP photos. This is the “back” of the boiler, compared to the photo above.

I was interested to know more about how this boiler worked, so I did spend some time with a serious book on the topic (Steam: Its Generation and Use, 38th edition, published by Babcock & Wilcox, New York, 1972), but didn’t find much help. Evidently the Scotch marine boiler was not of great interest to Babcock & Wilcox.

I have been exploring simple bracing for securing the boiler. The SP photo above, showing the load on the car, seems to have really minimal bracing, and tie-downs over the top of the boiler, so I will do the same. I’ll continue with that part of the topic in a future post.

Tony Thompson

An old Shake ’n’ Take project, Part 3

This freight car build is the 2015 Shake ’n’ Take project, as they are known, from that year’s “Prototype Rails” meet at Cocoa Beach, Florida. The prototype is a 40-foot double-door box car of the Rock Island; I showed a representative prototype photo in the first post in this series (here’s a link: https://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2024/09/an-older-shake-n-take-project.html  ). 

Participants in these projects get a car body, kit parts, and a full set of replacement parts, but I was a late registrant and only got part of the project contents. Thus I am using somewhat different parts and occasionally a different approach, but am trying to follow the original kit directions. Ways to acquire those directions were given in the previous post (see it at: https://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2024/09/an-old-shake-n-take-project-part-2.html ).

In the previous post in the series (just cited above), I showed completion of the “heavy” work of cutting the body and replacing the car ends. Now I undertook adding details to the car body. 

I began with ladders, and found in my stash some old Details West ladders with a rung spacing matching what is on the Athearn/Roundhouse car body. These were used on the car ends, and an additional ladder was cut up to make the unusual grab iron arrangement at the left of each car side. I chose not to remove the side ladders, as they are not excessively oversize.

I then added end placard boards from the remnants of a Details West parts set, and used styrene rod for the end grab iron rungs (the end moldings included the attachment points). The A end is shown below. Note that all sill steps are now removed, as the prototype ones were a different shape than those on the project kit body.

The details added to the A end, shown above, were also added to the B end. In addition, the brake gear details were added to the B end of the car. From the prototype photos in kit directions (see second paragraph of the present post for a link), the hand brakes were Ajax, and I used the Kadee wheel, along with an Ajax gear box from my parts stash. 

I continued by adding A-Line sill steps, along with Tichy corner grabs on the lateral running boards. Those grabs were modeled using the same method I showed in a recent post on another project (see my description at: https://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2024/09/the-hendrickson-usra-box-car-conclusion.html ). 

Below is a photo of the model at this point, resting on “paint shop” temporary trucks and ready for primer. I should mention that I don’t always prime models. With some paint, such as TruColor which will not adhere to resin, priming first is essential, but in other cases, it may not be necessary. For the present case, with a variety of materials in the added details, and the prominent GN lettering of the original kit, which I planned to cover rather than strip, primer seemed like a good idea.

For primer, I used the excellent Tamiya “Fine Surface Primer (White)” because I know it gives excellent coverage in a thin coat, and the spray can works very nicely, nothing like cheap “rattle cans” might do. I have now used it for a number of projects, and have always been quite happy with the results. Below is the model with its primer coat (and couplers taped). You will note that the huge GN emblem is still faintly visible, but the darker boxcar red final color will cover this easily.

This concludes all the construction and detailing work on this model. The final steps are paint and lettering and I will take those up in a future post.

Tony Thompson

The peculiar Walthers steel reefer, Part 2

Previously I wrote about the numerous oddities in lettering on the new Walthers “mainline” refrigerator car model, particularly on the version pretending to be a PFE Class R-30-13 car. Since it is a steel car body, this is obviously beyond help, disappointing because the lettering is actually quite accurately rendered — for a wood car. That earlier post is here: https://modelingthesp.blogspot.com/2024/10/the-peculiar-new-walthers-steel-reefer.html . 

To make the lettering accurate, the car needs almost everything re-lettered. But let’s see what can be simply done to make the biggest improvements. To me, the easiest fix on the model is to replace the wrong UP medallion on the side (left side) with the SP emblem toward the B end, with a black and white one. For this you want Microscale set 87-501, but be sure it’s from within a few years of purchase. Microscale continues to apply original numbers to revised and improved sets, of which this is one.

Here’s what it should look like (PFE photo), a repeat from the previous post for clarity.

The repack stencil, the distinctive PFE design with pointed rectangles, just visible at the bottom of the photo above, needs to be added too, and this is in the same Microscale set. Finally, a reweigh date appropriate to your modeling era should replace the “NEW” date on the model. After January 1, 1949, the required reweigh interval was 48 months, so I have to use 1950 or later reweigh dates on my 1953 layout. Here is the re-done left side.

This simple approach can’t be repeated on the other side, the right side, however, because the SP emblem is now away from the B end. For that arrangement, typical of 1946–1948, the UP emblem would be the one without the word “railroad” in the blue field, and like the black-white emblems, these are readily available in the Microscale decal sets. For this, the desired set number is 87-414. It also contains the repack rectangles. Here is the re-done right side.

One easy detail to fix on the “R-40-10” model is the corner sill steps, which on the prototype were orange in the 1948 paint scheme; this is an easy correction. And many Class R-40-10 cars, starting in October 1950, were refurbished and upgraded, visibly receiving steel-grid running boards (like this model) and car fans. One could also apply Preco fan boxes to this model, taken from Details West set RD-215, but given all the other compromises, it doesn’t seem needed.

This leads me to comment that some might contemplate correcting the rest of the model, replacing the incorrect roof, carving off the molded-on ladders and grab irons, and replacing them with free-standing details, and so on. To me, this would be a waste of time. InterMountain makes an excellent R-40-10 model, without any of these issues, while it would be a lot of work on the Walthers body to come close. 

So “saving” this model, to me, means making it acceptable as a “main line” model, all right in a passing train but perhaps not in switching, where it could be scrutinized. I completed the work I want to do by I painting the corner sill steps orange, and the very shiny wheel faces dark gray, then giving the whole model a coat of flat finish, preparatory to weathering.  I followed my typical method, washes using acrylic tube paints, as has been described and explained in my “Reference pages” (see link at top right of this post).

In this photo, you can see that I’ve also added a few chalk marks, and a route card applied where the route card board should be, at the bolster, though Walthers has not molded that detail on this model.

That completes the paint scheme revisions I wanted to do, to at least make the paint scheme(s) of this car credible, suitable for use as a “mainline” car. The shortcomings of the car body will be ignored. I’ve gone as far as I want to with this one.

Tony Thompson